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Why change needle sizes in a knitting pattern? What does it do?

by Sarah Dawn

Yesterday, we talked about the ‘at the same time’ instruction that is in the pattern for the Eyelet Skirt I’m knitting with Fibra Natura FLAX yarn. Today’s question is far less terrifying – why does a knitting pattern tell you to change needle sizes? There are a couple of reasons for this.

The upper part of the blue Eyelet Skirt being knit with Clover bamboo circular needles. The stitches are being knit onto a smaller needle; Fibra Natura FLAX #1819 Yarn - 50g - Light Weight 3 - 125m (137yds) - Adriatic, UNIQUE Knitting Split Ring Markers - 24pcs, Clover 3016/24-6 - Takumi Bamboo 61cm (24″) Circular Knitting Needle - Size 6/4mm, Clover 3016/24-4 - Takumi Bamboo 61cm (24″) Circular Knitting Needle - Size 4/3.5mm

Switching to a smaller knitting needle while knitting the Eyelet Skirt

The first reason has to do with sizing. If you switch to a smaller needle size, but keep the same number of stitches, the finished object will be smaller. (Conversely, if you switch to a larger needle size, and keep the same number of stitches, the pattern will be bigger.)

You can see that very clearly in the Eyelet Skirt pattern. When I switched from the 4mm Clover Bamboo Circular needles to the 3.5mm Bamboo Circular needles, my tension went from 6 stitches per inch, to 6.5 stitches per inch. I get the same number of stitches, tighter tension, and a smaller object. In this case, the tighter tension (along with the decrease rows), serves to bring the skirt in at the upper hips and waist.

The second reason is the fabric. The tighter the tension, the less light gets through the fabric. You can see this clearly in the photos in the pattern. On my own knitting, the difference is a little less visible (the black UNIQUE Knitting Split Ring Markers is where I made the switch), but it definitely pulled the work in a bit more.

Stocking stitch on Circular Bamboo needles. There is one UNIQUE Stitch Marker clipped into the work below the needles, and another stitch marker on the needle tip; Fibra Natura FLAX #1819 Yarn - 50g - Light Weight 3 - 125m (137yds) - Adriatic, UNIQUE Knitting Split Ring Markers - 24pcs, Clover 3016/24-6 - Takumi Bamboo 61cm (24″) Circular Knitting Needle - Size 6/4mm, Clover 3016/24-4 - Takumi Bamboo 61cm (24″) Circular Knitting Needle - Size 4/3.5mm

Stocking stitch from the upper part of the Eyelet Lace Skirt, with UNIQUE Stitch Markers showing the point of the needle switch

For a skirt, I want a denser fabric with minimal light bleeding through for the upper portion of a skirt. That said, the fabric I knit at the new 6.5 stitch per inch gauge, still has a bit of transparency – I suspect this is why the model and I were both wearing black leggings when we took the pictures!

But remember, you, as a knitter, have control over your gauge. So, if you want an even denser and even less see-through fabric at the top of the skirt, you can easily go down to a smaller needle (and, if I knit this again, I might test it out with a 3mm or even 2.5mm circular needle!). This will bring the waist of the skirt in a little more and change the way the hem flares. None of these things are bad things, rather, they’re things that you get to decide as a knitter. It’s one of the great advantages of our craft!

Of course, the gauge of the fabric isn’t the only thing that’s going to shape the waist of the skirt. The top hem, with the I-cord drawstring, also plays a huge role in the fit and drape of the skirt – and that’s the post that’s coming tomorrow as we finish the Eyelet Skirt with Fibra Natura FLAX yarn!

This is part 4 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 3: How to work ‘At the Same Time’ instructions in knitting patterns

Go to part 5: Working a hem with a three-needle bind off and I-cord | Eyelet Skirt

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