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Home » Yarns » Weaving a cover-up (Ruana) perfect for summer fun!

Weaving a cover-up (Ruana) perfect for summer fun!

by Cindy O'Malley

This week, I’m working with Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Speckles, which is a sumptuous worsted weight 100% cotton that is incredibly soft and perfect for summer garments and accessories. To complement the brilliant pops of Fruit Punch colors that decorate the creamy base, I’m also using a solid color of Cotton Supreme in Lavender.

Yesterday, I completed a knitted tote to match the sun hat from Day 3 of this series of posts. Both items were knit and embellished with Cotton Supreme DK Lavender for the hat band ribbon and the handles and drawstring for the tote. Today, I’m weaving a Ruana using both colors of Cotton Supreme.

A mannequin wearing a white and purple poncho; the solid Lavender of Cotton Supreme DK complements the specks of color in the Cotton Supreme Speckles yarn and adds a bright and cheerful look to the finished projects.

DeeDee the mannequin sporting the finished sun hat, tote and Ruana with ties at the front and sides.

What’s a Ruana you ask? A Ruana is a type of wrap that you throw over your shoulders and drape over your arms and body. Similar to a poncho, however, it’s open in the front and typically square, but that would mean it would cover most of your arms. In this case, I just want it to drape over the shoulders and cover the upper arms – a delicate spot for potential sunburn. My Ruana will be rectangular.

As I mentioned above, I’m weaving this project on my 28” Knitters Loom which is a rigid heddle loom. I had a friend measure my desired finished width and knew this would fit me nicely. If your loom is smaller in width, you can make it in two pieces and seam the back. This also applies if you want to make it wider than your loom can handle.

For this project you will need the following:



  • 5 – 3.5oz [100g] skeins of Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch
  • 1 skein of Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender

total weaving yardage requirements 786yds Fruit Punch and 62yds Lavender


  • 1 US4 [3.5mm] crochet hook for the edge embellishments
  • a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and doing the hemstitch
  • 3 (or 4) shuttles

heddle 7.5dpi


Dpi = Dents per Inch (measurement of the slots and eyelets in the heddle

Epi = Ends per inch (the number of warp threads per inch)

Ppi = Picks per Inch (refers to the weft)

Warping Instructions

Direct Warp Length = 82” based on a finished length of 64”.

Warp Thread Color Pattern = 2 Lavender, 24 Fruit Punch, Repeat from * and finish with 2 Lavender.

Weaving Instructions

Lavender – 4 passes with the shuttle as the 1st 2 rows will be used in the Hem Stitch

*Speckles – 24 passes with the shuttle

Lavender – 2 passes with the shuttle

Repeat from * ending with 2 more passes of Lavender for the final Hemstitch 2×3 (2 Weft, 3 Warp)

Weave in this fashion until 8 blocks have been completed, then divide for front opening. At this point, you will need two shuttles wound with Fruit Punch, however, I only used 1 shuttle for Lavender as there are only two passes required at a time.

The point for dividing is the center stripe of Lavender. Weave the right side and left side at the same time as this ensures the beating will be consistent. Since the Lavender passes are only two rows, I used 1 shuttle and wove 1 side, beat, cut the yarn, and then wove the other side.

Weave 9 blocks in total before ending with the 4 passes of Lavender, then hemstitch 2×3 (2 Weft, 3 Warp).

Cut it off the loom leaving enough length for twisting the fringe.


The side and front edges are crocheted with Lavender and include belt and tie loops on each side and front. Before starting, determine where you want the loops by draping them over your shoulders and have someone place a pin marker at your waist.

Using a US4 [3.5mm] crochet hook and Lavender, pick up and SC (single crochet) one warp thread in between every other weft thread, BUT, work it like you would a Knit and Purl, alternating between each SC. That means, beginning with the Knit by inserting the crochet hook into the front of the work, then the Purl by inserting the crochet hook from the back of the work. This makes your edge lay completely flat so that the Ruana is reversible – identical on both sides.

Side Edge

When you get to the waist marker, CH3 (chain) and skip 3 wefts before working the next SC for the belt loop. Work the next loop approximately 3” later and continue along the edge. Work the next set of belt loops at the same place on the back (or front, depending on where you started). Once the entire side edge is complete, cut yarn and weave in ends. Repeat this process on the other side edge.

Front Edge

This time, you pick up from the bottom of one side, crochet up the edge, insert the tie loops where applicable, up to the neck and down the other side, repeating the tie loops in the same places.

When finished the loops are almost invisible so when not in use, you won’t have unsightly loops popping out.


Twist the fringe warp threads before laundering the Ruana. This way you can trim the ends. I rather like how mine frayed out so I’m keeping it just the way it came out of the laundry. I borrowed a fringe twisting tool from our Guild studio which made this task much quicker and easier.

Trim the ends and you’re done!

My finished measurements off the loom = 25”w x 64”l.


I made two different types of cords for the Ruana. Twisted ties for the front and/or sides, and Corking Cord. I didn’t have access to the fringe twister for the ties so I had to make them by hand. But I just have to share the corking results.

I was so enthralled with corking again after all these years that I found myself corking in the car (as a passenger), corking in front of the TV, corking in group discussions, and whenever I just wanted to do something with my hands. As a result, I ended up with about 9’ of corked cording which was way too long.

This next photo is for all my knitting pals out there who know how much I hate to cut yarn, never mind knitted fabric.

The stitch markers denote where I’ll cut the cord.

9’ of corked cord made with Cotton Supreme DK and a French Knitter. The stitch markers are where I cut the cord.

Yup, it’s true … I cut it, in two places! I experienced severe anxiety for the first cut, but on the second, I figured, in for a penny, in for a pound, and relaxed a little. The two smaller sections were used as the handles for the tote and the longer section as the belt for the Ruana. I unravelled a couple of rounds from each of the cut ends so that I could finish them off neatly and securely.

Now that all my projects are completed, it’s time for the close-up reveal.

The solid Lavender of Cotton Supreme DK complements the specks of color in the Cotton Supreme Speckles yarn and adds a bright and cheery look to the finished projects.

DeeDee the mannequin sporting the finished sun hat, and tote, and Ruana with the corded belt.

I’m really pleased with how my projects turned out this week. If you recall, the subtheme for this week was tubes and cords and they were fun to make. My error in ordering the DK weight of Cotton Supreme in a solid color worked out in the end. Even my over-starching of the hat worked out, but I’ll get a better sprayer for the next time I launder it with Soak.

I love the way the speckled yarn worked in both the knitted and woven fabrics. The specks add a bright spot of color that is cheerful and complemented by the Lavender.

Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Speckles and DK.

Cotton Supreme Speckles in Fruit Punch and Cotton Supreme DK in Lavender.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s posts. I know you’ll enjoy knitting Universal Yarn Cotton Supreme Speckles and wearing incredibly soft finished garments. Don’t forget to have some fun in the sun this summer!

Happy knitting.

This is part 5 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 4: Knitting a tote to match the knitted sun hat


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