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1 cake of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow knits up the Gothic Diffusion shawl

On Wednesday, I shared my thoughts on the Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow yarns…the colorways, the fiber content, the yarn architecture. Yesterday, I dangled a carrot of a shawl knit in the Parfait colorway.

Today I present the pattern for the Gothic Diffusion shawl. Please ask your questions in the comments, and when you share your end results on social media, please tag KNITmuch!

 

The Parfait colorway of It’s a Wrap Rainbow makes the 7-foot wingspanned Gothic Diffusion shawl look its best.

 

finished measurements

87″ [220cm] wide x 24″ [60cm] deep.

gauge

2 full Gothic Arches Lace motifs = 5¼” [13.5cm]; 25 rows in lace pattern = 4″ [10cm]

materials

Size US 7 [4.5mm] 48″ [120cm] circular needle.

Size US 7/G [4.5mm] standard crochet hook

1 cake of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow in the Parfait colorway. 55% cotton, 45% acrylic; 623yds [570m]; 5⅓ oz [150g].

6 stitch markers, preferably in 3 matching pairs of colors or dangling charms.

abbreviations

See yesterday’s post for more detailed explanations.

K = knit
P = purl
ssk = slip, slip, knit
k2tog = knit 2 together
s2kp2 = slip 2 sts together, k1, psso
yo = yarn over
sm = slip marker
pm = place marker
rm = remove marker
rem = remain(ing)
[ ] or { } repeat the instructions between brackets the indicated number of times or to the indicated stitch marker.

crochet abbreviations (North American terminology)

ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch; st(s) = stitch(es)

 

Each colorway of Red Heart Rainbow™ has at least 5 colors that appear in the gradient transitions.

 

Pattern Notes

See yesterday’s post for some general information about the pattern.

Stitch counts are only given for the first 43 rows. After that, the increase rate and additional motifs appearance will be established.

Stitch marker placement

When working on the right-side, the markers will be named A, B, C, D, E, and F. When working on the wrong-side, the markers are F, E, D, C, B, and A. If you have different colors or charms for stitch markers, A & F should be the same, B & E, and C & D will be the other pairs.

Adding motif repeats

When there are 15 or more stitches between the edges and stitch markers A or F and the next row is a wrong side row, move stitch markers A and F 12 stitches toward the edges. Marker-A can be moved on the wrong-side row; Marker F will need to be moved on the next right-side row. Work the instructions between {curly brackets} across the multiples of 12 stitches between markers A and B and E and F.

When there are 14 or more stitches on either side of the center stitch (between markers B and C and D and E) and the next row is a wrong side row, move stitch markers B and E 12 stitches toward the center. Marker-B can be moved on the wrong-side row; Marker E will need to be moved on the next right-side row.

If you happen to miss the 15-st or 14-st amounts near the edges or the center stitch and end up with more than 15 or 14, do not unravel your work, simply move the stitch markers and work the 12-st pattern repeat given between {curly brackets} on the next right-side row.

The optional garter stitch ridge

To work the garter stitch ridge in to occasionally disrupt the Gothic Arches lace motif, pay attention to the instructions on Rows 32 and 56. The ridge is only added if a motif repeat has been recently added, otherwise, continue to work in the established pattern.

 

Additional pattern repeats of the Gothic Arches lace motif are added only when there are enough stitches to do so.

 

Pattern Starts

Cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: K1, [yo, k1]x5—11 sts.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: [K1, yo]x2, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—15 sts.

Row 4: Knit.

Row 5: K7, yo, k1, yo, k7—17 sts.

Row 6: Purl.

Row 7: [K1, yo]x2, k7, yo, pm, k1, yo, k7, [yo, k1]x2—23 sts.

Row 8: Knit.

Row 9: Rep Row 3—27 sts.

Row 10: Purl.

Row 11: [K1, yo]x2, knit to marker, rm, yo, pm, k1, yo, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—33 sts.

Row 12: Knit.

Rows 13–16: Rep Rows 9–12—43 sts.

Row 17: Knit.

Row 18: Purl.

Row 19: Rep Row 11 removing all markers—49 sts.

Row 20 (WS): K6, pm (now called marker F), k12, pm (now called marker E), k6, pm (now called marker D), k1, sm (now called marker C), k6, pm (now called marker B), k12, pm (now called marker A), k6.

Row 21 (RS): K2, yo, knit to marker-A, smA, yo, k4, s2kp2, k4, yo, k1, smB, knit to marker-C, smC, k1, smD, knit to marker-E, smE, k1, yo, k4, s2kp2, kr, yo, smF, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2–2 sts increased—51 sts.

Row 22: Purl, slipping all markers.

Row 23: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, k1, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k2, smB, knit to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to marker-E, smE, k2, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k1, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—6 sts increased, 57 sts.

Row 24: Knit to marker-F, smF, purl to marker E, smE, knit to marker B, smB, purl to marker A, smA, knit rem sts.

Row 25: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, k2, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k3, smB, knit to marker E, smE, k3, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k2, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—4 sts increased, 61 sts.

Row 26: Purl, slipping all markers.

Row 27: K2, yo, knit to marker-A, smA, k3, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k4, smB, knit to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to marker-E, smE, k4, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k3, smF, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2—4 sts increased, 65 sts.

Row 28: Rep Row 24.

Row 29: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, k4, yo, s2kp2, yo, k5, smB, knit to marker-E, smE, k5, yo, s2kp2, yo, k4, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—4 sts increased, 69 sts.

Row 30: Check side edge stitch count (see Pattern Notes for adding motif repeats). Purl across, slipping all markers.

 

Remember to check for stitch counts at edges and next to center increases!

 

Row 31: K2, yo, knit to marker-A (if there are any sts before A), smA, {k12} across to marker-B, knit to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to marker-E, {k12} across to marker F, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2—4 sts increased, 73 sts.

Row 32: Knit to marker-F, smF, (if a rep of 12 sts has just been added to this edge, {k12} across to E; otherwise…){p12} across to E, knit across to B, (if a rep of 12 sts has just been added to this edge, {k12} across to last 12 sts before A; otherwise…) {p12} across to A, smA, knit rem sts.

Row 33: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {yo, k4, s2kp2, k4, yo, k1} across to next marker, smB, knit across to marker-E, {k1, yo, k4, s2kp2, k4, yo} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—4 sts increased, 77 sts.

Row 34: Purl across, slipping all markers.

Row 35: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {k1, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k2} across to next marker, smB, knit across to next marker, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to next marker, smE, {k2, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k1} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—6 sts increased, 83 sts.

Row 36: Knit to next marker, smF, purl to next marker, smE, knit to marker-B, smB, purl to next marker, smA, knit rem sts.

Row 37: K2, yo, knit to next marker, smA, {k2, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k3} across to next marker, smB, knit across to marker-E, smE, {k3, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k2} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2—2 sts increased, 79 sts.

Row 38: Purl across, slipping all markers.

Row 39: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {k3, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k4} across to next marker, smB, knit across to next marker, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to next marker, smE, {k4, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k3} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2—6 sts increased, 89 sts.

Row 40: Rep Row 36.

Row 41: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {k5, yo, s2kp2, yo, k4} across to next marker, smB, knit across to marker-E, smE, {k4, yo, s2kps, yo, k5} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [k1, yo]x2—4 sts increased, 93 sts.

Row 42: Purl across, slipping all markers.

Row 43: K2, yo, knit across to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2—4 sts increased, 97 sts.

Row 44: Knit across, slipping all markers.

Rows 45-53: Rep Rows 33-41.

Rows 54-56: Rep Rows 30-32.

Rep Rows 33-56 until desired width is achieved, ending with a Row 32 or 44. You should have about 10 meters of yarn remaining to work the crocheted edging.

 

Pair this shawl with a little black dress for a cool summer or fall evening. One of the colorways of It’s a Wrap Rainbow by Red Heart is sure to suit your wardrobe or taste.

 

Crochet Edging

After binding off, place the last live stitch on the crochet hook.

Working across one of the shorter diagonal edges first, ch 3, dc in the st at the base of the ch-3 just make. *Lean the dc towards the shawl edge and work a sc where the top of the dc naturally lies. Ch 3, dc in the same place as the sc just made; rep from * around the entire shawl. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

 

This is part 5 of 5 in this series.
Go back to part 4: Knitting an obtuse isosceles triangle shawl with one cake of Rainbow

 

About Charles Voth

I’m Charles Voth, a crochet and knitting professional. I enjoy reviewing yarns and tools to help others find materials that will help them be happy with what they stitch. I design garments and accessories and items for the home. I teach both crafts at yarn stores, in schools, and at craft shows and retail events. I am also a technical editor of both crochet and knitting patterns and illustrate the charts and diagrams that make pattern reading accessible to so many.

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