Toe up socks give you something no top down sock can: a perfect custom fit, checked on your own foot as you knit. Cast on at the toe, try the sock on as you go, and turn the heel exactly where your foot says to. This tutorial walks you through a complete toe up sock pattern with a short row heel and a stretchy bind off, worked in the Magic Loop method on a 32″ [81cm] circular needle.
The yarn is a stretchy, vibrant, self-patterning sock yarn that is 100% wool free. The stripes appear on their own as you knit, so a simple 2×2 rib lets the yarn do all the talking. Since the same yarn suits far more than socks, this guide also covers a striped baby T-shirt and a matching bucket hat, a complete handmade gift set from one cheerful yarn.
Toe up socks made with Bamboo Pop Sock in Wildflowers and US 1.5 [2.5mm] Knit Picks circular needle
Why knit socks from the toe up
Top down socks let you reknit worn toes later, and that is a real advantage. Toe up socks win on fit. You can slip the sock on at any point, measure against your own foot, and start the heel at exactly the right row. Remember that socks need negative ease. Aim for a sock about ½” to 1″ [1.3 to 2.5 cm] smaller than your foot in both length and width, and let the stretch do the rest.
One caution applies: a traditional cast off is too tight for a toe up leg. Use a surprisingly stretchy bind off that adds yarn overs and reverse yarn overs before each stitch, and the cuff stays comfortable.
materials
yarn
- 1 ball, 3.5oz [100g], of self-patterning striped sock yarn
needles
- 32″ [81cm] US 1.5 [2.5mm] circular needle for Magic Loop, or double-pointed needles, or 2 circulars
gauge
33sts = 4″ [10cm] in stocking stitch (approximately)
abbreviations
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St(s) = stitch(es)
- Rnd = round
- Rep = repeat
- Inc = increase
- K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- Sl = slip the stitch purl-wise
- M1 = make 1 stitch by picking up the bar between two stitches and knitting it through the back loop
- W&T = wrap and turn by wrapping the yarn around the next stitch without working it
- YO = yarn over
- RYO = reverse yarn over, made by bringing the yarn from the back over the top of the right needle and returning it to the back
Sock instructions
Shape the toe
Using a magic cast on for toe up socks, cast on 6sts on each needle and leave a lengthy tail.
- Rnd 1: Knit each stitch.
- Rnd 2: Using both the working yarn and the tail, knit each stitch (12sts increased).
- Rnd 3: Knit each stitch, separating the double stitches created on the previous round (24sts).
- Rnd 4: *K4, M1; rep from * to end of round (30sts).
- Rnds 5 and 6: Knit.
- Rnd 7: *K5, M1; rep from * to end of round (36sts).
- Rnds 8 and 9: Knit.
- Rnd 10: *K6, M1; rep from * to end of round (42sts).
- Rnds 11 and 12: Knit.
- Rnd 13: *K7, M1; rep from * to end of round (48sts).
- Rnds 14 and 15: Knit.
- Rnd 16: *K8, M1; rep from * to end of round (54sts).
- Rnds 17 and 18: Knit.
- Rnd 19: *K9, M1; rep from * to end of round (60sts).
Continue increasing in this fashion to the desired number of stitches. Many patterns call for 60sts to fit an average ladies foot. Cast on fewer or add more to fit yours.
Knit the foot
On the first needle (top of foot), work *P2, K2; rep from *, ending with P2. On the second needle (bottom of foot), knit. Continue until the foot, slightly stretched, just about reaches the start of your heel. The sock foot should be shorter than your actual foot.
Turn the heel
The short row heel is worked back and forth on the bottom of the foot stitches only.
- Work across the top of the foot sts in pattern.
- Knit to 1 st before the last stitch of the bottom foot sts; W&T.
- Sl wrapped st and purl across to 1 st before the last st; W&T.
- Sl wrapped st and knit to 1 st before the last wrapped st; W&T.
- Sl wrapped st and purl to 1 st before the last wrapped st; W&T.
- Continue working heel sts in this fashion until one third of the total heel sts remain (10sts on a 60sts)
- Sl wrapped st and knit to the 1st wrap, pick up the wrap with the st and knit together; W&T.
- Sl wrapped st and purl to the 1st wrap, pick up the wrap with the st and purl together; W&T.
- Sl wrapped st and knit to the next wrap, pick up both wraps with the st and knit together; W&T.
- Sl wrapped st and purl to the next wrap, pick up both wraps with the st and purl together; W&T.
- Continue until all wraps have been worked on the knit side; one wrapped stitch remains at the start of the row.
- Pattern across the top of the foot.
- Pick up both wraps with the 1st stitch of the heel and knit them together. Knit across the row, work 1 more round of pattern on the top of the foot, then knit across the heel.
Knit the leg and bind off
Work P2, K2 rib across all stitches until the leg reaches your desired length.
For the stretchy bind off: YO, P1, pass the YO over; YO, P1, pass the YO and st over; [RYO, K1, pass the YO and st over] twice; [YO, P1, pass the YO and st over] twice. Continue casting off in this fashion, matching the yarn over type to the next stitch, until all stitches are cast off.
Weave in all ends and repeat the entire pattern for the second sock. Do not fret about matching the stripes perfectly. Simply start the next sock right after the first one, and enjoy the cheerful result.
A striped baby T-shirt from the same yarn
Sock yarn makes wonderful baby knits, and a free T-shirt pattern written for a heavier yarn converts easily. The trick is simple math. The pattern calls for 21sts = 4″ [10cm], but this yarn knits at 27sts = 4″ [10cm] on a US4 [3.5 mm] needle. Multiply each measurement in the schematic by your stitches per inch (7 in this case) and follow those counts. Conveniently, the stitch count for the second largest size produced the smallest size (3 to 6 months). Follow the length instructions for the size you want, since lengths are given in inches rather than rows.
Self-patterning yarn needs a little planning on a garment. Knit the front and back flat rather than in the round, because doubling the stitch count would shrink the stripes dramatically. Start the back at the same point in the yarn color sequence as the front so the stripes line up at the side seams. Above the neckline, switch to a coordinating solid color, worked on a smaller US3 [3.25mm] needle for the garter sections, so the left and right shoulders never show mismatched stripes. Finish the shoulders with a 3-needle bind off for a seamless join, or cast off and seam if you prefer.
One more needle note: for the Magic Loop method on the neck and sleeve edging, a circular needle at least 32″ [81cm] long is the most comfortable choice. A shorter cord works in a pinch if you scrunch the stitches onto the left needle to free up cord.
A matching bucket hat
A little lace bucket hat completes the gift set and uses the same two colors. It is worked in the round with the Magic Loop method at a gauge of 27sts = 4″ [10 cm].
- With the US3 [3.25 mm] needle and the solid color, cast on 120sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
- Work 6 rounds in garter stitch (knit 1 round, purl 1 round).
- Change to the US4 [3.5 mm] needle and the striped yarn. Knit 1 round.
- *YO, K2tog; rep from * to end of round. Repeat this lace round 11 more times, 12 rounds total.
- Decrease round: *K2, K2tog; rep from * to end of round (90sts).
- Change to the smaller needle and the solid color and work 6 rounds of garter stitch.
- Change to the larger needle and the striped yarn and knit until the work measures 4¾” [12cm] from the cast on edge.
- Crown shaping: *K13, K2tog; rep from * to end of round. Work this decrease round every alternate round 4 times, knitting 1 less stitch before each K2tog (66sts).
- Knit 1 round, then work the decrease round every round until 24sts remain.
- K2tog to end of round (12sts). K2tog to end of round again, then cut the yarn, thread the tail through the remaining 6sts twice, pull tightly, and secure.
- Weave in all ends.
Make two sets in different colorways if the new baby is keeping everyone guessing. A magenta solid happens to sit right on trend, and a blue set covers the other guess.
Finishing and care
Give the finished pieces a wash with a rinse-free laundry soap and lay them flat to dry. One last habit worth copying: keep a sock in progress in your purse. Waiting rooms and passenger seats become knitting time, and the colorful stripes almost always start a conversation.