Looking for a Quick Knit? Try This Free Chunky Spiral Rug Pattern

Enjoy Your Spiral Rug!

Super bulky yarn and big needles turn a rug into a weekend project! This post covers an invisible circular cast-on, stitch-marker setup, and yarn-over increase. It also covers an optional garter stitch border and gentle damp blocking.

Knit The Spiral Rug with Be Wool Yarn and a free pattern from Universal Yarn

finished measurements

30″ [76cm]  diameter

materials

yarn

  • super bulky wool and acrylic blend, machine washable, nearly 3 balls of 94yd [86m] each

needles

  • US 15 [10mm] double-pointed needles
  • US 15 [10mm] circular needles, 16″ and 23″
  • US 17 [12mm] needle, for a looser bind-off (optional)

notions

  • jumbo locking ring stitch markers, 5 in one color and 1 in another
  • small scissors
  • bent tip darning needle
  • blocking mats and blockers
  • wool wash

gauge

  • 6½ sts x 12 rnds = 4” in stockinette stitch

Download the pattern

The free spiral rug pattern is available as a PDF download. It was written for a cotton yarn, but a wool blend adds warmth.

Why go big

Lightweight yarns can feel like knitting all the time and getting nowhere. A bulky project finishes in a fraction of the time. It also adds coziness, since big stitches make a squishy, warm fabric.

Super bulky yarn knits at about 7 to 11 stitches to 4″ [10.2cm]. Jumbo yarn is even larger, and usually reserved for blankets. Choose a neutral color, so the rug suits any room.

Cast on invisibly

The invisible circular cast-on needs only knitting needles, no crochet hook. It closes the center hole for a professional finish. Cast on with a circular needle, then divide the stitches evenly onto double-pointed needles to knit in the round.

A perfect beginning to a wonderful rug!

Knit about ten rounds before tightening the center. You can even wait until the rug is finished. Tighten slowly, since it’s very hard to loosen again. Pulling too tight creates a pucker, which blocking can fix.

Set up the stitch markers

Use jumbo markers made for US 15 [10mm] needles or larger. Locking rings are handy because you can open one if you accidentally knit it in. They also work as progress keepers.

Stitch markers set up right

Round 1 reads: knit 1, yarn over, place marker, repeated to the end. That adds 6 stitches, for 12. Put the single marker in a different color on the last place marker. It marks the end of the round. Always make the yarn over before slipping a marker, and check that no marker has slid under a yarn over.

Work the yarn over

The yarn over is the only skill needed besides knit. It makes a lacy hole and a single increase, and it gives the rug its spiral shape. Bring the working yarn between the needle tips from back to front. Lift it over the right needle to return it to the back. Then knit the next stitch as normal.

Add a garter stitch border

This border isn’t in the pattern. After the last pattern round, skip the yarn overs and work one round of purl, one of knit, and one of purl. The big loose stitches stretch enough to take it. Bind off very loosely, with a US 17 [12mm] needle if you like.

These pretty Yarn Over stitches create lacey holes and help grow the Spiral Rug.

Block the rug

Damp blocking gives a clean edge and a flat center. Dip the rug quickly in cold water with a little wool wash. Swish it, then lift it out before it soaks through. Squeeze gently, roll it in a towel, and check that every fiber is slightly damp.

Lay it on blocking mats and stretch it from the center out, like spreading pizza dough. Use small blockers to hold the center flat. Use larger ones at each point of the spiral. Leave it two days to dry fully. Thick yarn takes time, especially on a humid day.

This is how I placed my Knit Blockers to block out my Spiral Rug.

Original series by Fiona Stevenson on KNITmuch.com. Photos by Fiona Stevenson

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