This week we’ve been looking at 4 fabulous new colorways in Classic Shades Frenzy by Universal yarn. If you look at all 14 colorways of this yarn, you’ll see that several of them have colors in common. This makes it really easy to use 1 or 2 balls of more than one color in the same project. For today, I’ve created a fast and portable knitting project — square blocks that you can finish in just over an hour. You won’t have to lug a huge project bag with you, and in several hours here and there, you’ll soon have enough squares to make a blanket.
To knit this you need the yarn (I used Classic Shades Frenzy in the Fern and Harbor Lights colorways), and your favorite needle or needles to knit in the round. If you like magic loop, then you can have all the stitches on one needle. If you want to use double points, I’d recommend a set of 5 instead of 4, so you can have each side of the square on its own needle. My preferred method is 2 short circular needles, and I divide the number of stitches in half.
The blocks are worked from the outside in. Unlike garter stitch mitered squares, where the almost 1 to 1 tension of stitches to ridges, makes symmetrical decreases the perfect fit for 45° angles at the corners, stockinette stitch, with its ratio of 3 to 4, or 5 to 7 stitches to rows, isn’t quite so forgiving. But I’ve done the hard work for you. While each round of decreases is a little different than the ones before or after, just knit as you read the pattern and you’ll get neat squares that lay flat, especially once they are wet-blocked. By the way, I didn’t aggressively pin these squares when I blocked them and they ended up nice and uncurled.
I used two size US11 [8mm] circular needles. The gauge is quite loose, but I wanted a blanket with a lot of drape. You can go down in needle size if you wish, but you’ll need to knit more squares to cover the desired surface area.
With size US11 [8mm] needle(s), cast on 89 stitches. If extra yarn after a cast-on doesn’t bother you, it’s useful to leave a 16″ to 20″ tail for sewing up seams later. Just don’t forget to knit the first round with the yarn from the ball and not the tail. I used the twisted German or old Norwegian cast on because it’s nice and stretchy.
Why 89 stitches, you ask? I like to overlap the join of my cast on edge by slipping the last stitch over the first stitch of the cast on. Here’s how I do it:
First, make sure there’s no twist in the cast-on. Then, slip the first stitch on the LH needle purlwise to the RH needle. Pass the 2nd st on the RH needle over the slipped st and then return the slipped st to the LH needle. 88 sts. You’re all set to go.
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: Purl.
Rnd 3: [K1, ssk, k17, k2tog] 4 times. 80 sts.
Rnd 4: [K1, ssk, k17] 4 times. 76 sts.
Rnd 5: [K1, ssk, k14, k2tog] 4 times. 68 sts.
Rnd 6: [K15, k2tog] 4 times. 64 sts.
Rnd 7: [K1, ssk, k13] 4 times. 60 sts.
Rnd 8: [K1, ssk, k10, k2tog] 4 times. 52 sts.
Rnd 9: [K11, k2tog] 4 times. 48 sts.
Rnd 10: [K1, ssk, k7, k2tog] 4 times. 40 sts.
Rnd 11: [K1, ssk, k7] 4 times. 36 sts.
Rnd 12: [K7, k2tog] 4 times. 32 sts.
Rnd 13: [K1, ssk, k3, k2tog] 4 times. 24 sts.
Rnd 14: [K1, ssk, k3] 4 times. 20 sts.
Rnd 15: [K1, ssk, k2tog] 4 times. 12 sts.
Rnd 16: [K1, k2tog] 4 times. 8 sts.
Cut yarn and thread a 6″ tail into a yarn needle. Insert the needle through all stitches beginning in the next st in the round. Go through the first 2 sts again. Cinch tight and weave in the end on the wrong side.
The yarn needle goes through the strand of the top of the bound off edge facing you on one square, then across the gap and through the corresponding strand on the other square. You then return the yarn needle through the adjacent strand on the previous square and back through the original strand on the closer square. Then, you insert the needle under the adjacent strand on the closer square and back through the same strand just used on the far square, and so on. After every 3 or 4 stitches, tighten the yarn gently to close the gap.
For a random look, sew the blocks together. Or, take a more coordinated approach by waiting until they’re all done. That way, you can lay out your squares, sew them into strips, and then sew the strips together.
To prevent gaps at the corners, I picked up a loop at the adjacent corner of each square with the sewing yarn, and cinched them together.
Like I mentioned at the beginning of this week, Classic Shades is definitely one of my favorite acrylic wool blends. The colors are exciting and the structure of the yarn is sound. It takes blocking well, and is soft and drapey. I do hope you try some soon.
This is part 5 of 5 in this series.
Go back to part 4: Eyes will turn to gaze at your chevron knits with this stitch pattern
- Bobbles on the yoke: knitting a child’s top-down sweater using Toy Box - March 2, 2018
- Knit easy child slippers with Toy Box colors - March 1, 2018
- 6 patterns are very soft knit up in Toy Box yarn - February 28, 2018
- Using a swatch to practice weaving in ends with a crochet hook - February 27, 2018
- Out of the Toy Box! Knitting with marled, self-striping chunky yarn - February 26, 2018
- Knitting a versatile gift bag using leftover yarn - February 2, 2018
- Using hyperbolic theory to knit a holiday ornament - February 1, 2018
- How to knit and finish sturdy gift boxes - January 31, 2018
- Knitting a flat circle in the round becomes a crumb catcher - January 30, 2018
- Coasting right into double knitting - January 29, 2018